If you are in the market for a high quality sapphire the good news is that you do not have to be a gemologist to know what to look for in the stones that are presented to you, either as loose stones or as part of a piece of fine jewelry. The average consumer, with some basic education in what to look for, can shop for sapphires with the confidence that they have the knowledge to evaluate the beauty of each stone, making a selection that will reward them with deep, personal satisfaction.

As you prepare to shop for a sapphire ring, pendant, necklace, bracelet or loose stone, here are some things to pay close attention to:

First, examine the stone’s color. Other factors beside the innate color of the natural gem material can affect the way we perceive the color of the finished sapphire.  The finest colors are those that exhibit intense, mid-range tones, deep and pure, not at all mottled. For example, if it’s a blue sapphire you are examining, it should be solid blue, not too pale, inky, or dark, and should not have flecks or veins of any other color running through it. Sapphires with areas of light and dark in a striped pattern called color zoning, are very common.  This can often be minimized by the cutter if he is able to rotate the stone so the zoning won’t be obvious in the finished gem.  Finer quality stones will usually be cut by master craftsmen who will be able to minimize the effect this natural phenomena will have on the finished product.

Secondly, look for a stone that is free of flaws to the naked eye. Such stones are known as “eye-clean.” Sometimes a high-quality sapphire can have a subtle silkiness throughout the gem.  The ideal clarity is gentler or less crisp than one finds in diamonds. This placid, liquid clarity produces a greater depth than a gem that is completely transparent, and is considered more desirable for its richer character.  Stones from the legendary Kashmir mines often display this softness but they are exceedingly rare.  For most sapphires, what you will look for will be something obvious resembling a cracks or inclusions within the stone.  A sapphire can be of such wonderful quality and exceptional cutting that even with an inclusion or flaw it is desirable and beautiful, but the rarity of the “eye clean” gems adds to their value.

One exception to the rule of clarity involves stones that feature an occurrence called asterism. This natural phenomena produces a beautiful and unique star-shaped sparkle in direct light, leading to the designation star sapphires. When the star is crisp and bright, star sapphires are highly sought after.  Stars are only seen in gems fashioned into cabachon shapes.

Many many other criteria can affect the value of a sapphire, but these few tips will allow you to mentally organize your first impression of the stone and possibly understand what it was that led you to like or dislike it.More than anything else, trust your eye. The human eye knows beauty when it sees it!

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Filed under: Gemstone Guides • Sapphire

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